Caulking stucco windows

Full Stucco Remediation with Stone Veneer. Facebook LinkedIn Twitter. Want More Information? Please include your name, email address, and phone number below. Now most manufacturers these days make a caulking that is paintable and I can only assume that it is because it is much harder to sell one that can not be painted and is intended for specialty applications only.

You will want to read the tube though to make sure that it is indeed paintable as different manufacturers have different products. Some manufacturers recommend certain types of paints over others, mainly having to do with the base that is used for the paint.

I wanted to recommend some caulking I use myself to give those of you out there that might still be a bit overwhelmed some more specific examples. Acrylic Caulking: I have used the Alex Plus caulking 40 year for many years now and really like how well it blends into the finished stucco. This is an acrylic caulking with silicone added for extra water resistance, among other benefits.

It works best for stucco cracks and I even use it where stucco meets wood in less weather prone areas lath where the walls meet the roof sheathing, rafters, etc. This stuff is super inexpensive and there is NOT a hardware store anywhere I have found, anyways that does not sell it.

Polyurethane Caulking: There are two main polyurethane caulking brands I like and have used extensively and these are Sikaflex and Fortiflash brands. The Sikaflex can be found at Home Depot and is usually found down the cement aisle, rather than the caulking aisle.

I use the construction sealant they make but they also have a 1a formula that I heard works well too. Fortiflash also sells a polyurethane caulking I really like but I have not seen it at Home Depot or Lowes or any smaller hardware store.

I will usually get these at my local stucco supplier. I do prefer the Sikaflex though because of the thicker consistency. Sanded Caulking: I have used a couple of different sanded caulks that have worked well.

These are basically the same types of caulking, made up of the same ingredients for the most part and the base is usually acrylic. Since stucco is generally unequal, there might have been gaps that were bigger in some areas than in others. If you do not force the caulk into the space to completely fill it, the caulk can sag prior to drying, causing a fracture to form. Merely recaulk over any fractures that you see.

OK, exactly what if the replacement windows are going in between wood trim surrounding the opening? If you are using the retrofit lip, and trimming it to fit in between the wood, then you still apply the heavy bead to the old frame prior to setting up the window.

Rather of sealing where the retrofit lip meets the stucco , you seal where it fulfills the wood. Then, start at the other end and caulk to meet the first bead. This will allow you to maintain a steady hand position, which will result in a uniform bead.

Siding is often textured, and if you slide the tip of the tube along the bumpy texture, the bead of caulk will also be bumpy. The best way to smooth the bead is to start about six inches from the bottom and smooth that small section first.

Then, move up another six inches and smooth that section next, pulling downward toward the section you just smoothed. Amateurs often try to smooth the entire bead at one time, which causes excess caulk to build up and overflow on the sides of the seam. Smoothing just a small section at a time will give you a professional look and prevent a mess of excess caulk on the sides of the seam.

It takes caulk a couple of hours to start drying, so you should have ample time to smooth in this manner. Then, run the bead of caulk and smooth it off as described above.